![]() That's how soda cans are made (kind of) and they're water tight. You could roll a hem on a rotary machine. Copper would work best, and you'll want the sheet to be a little thicker than your finished piece. Trim flush with a pair of snips and clean up on a disc sander. Use a ball peen hammer and work out from the keel and up the hulls and raise the radius into the sides. Use a blunt v-shaped die over a wooden form or sandbag to begin to stretch a ridge in the sheet. If you're trying to make the keel joint where the two hulls meet, you may be able to form this from a single sheet rather than seaming it. I am not familiar with araldite, but you could do a grooved flat lock seam and silicone it from the inside. Long-cut aviation shears have the jaw angled 90 degrees from the handles and are good for making long, straight cuts where clearance of material is an issue. Yellow is straight, red is left, green is right. They are color-coded, though all you really have to do is look at the jaws and use your common sense. Compound Action Shears / Aviation Shears: used originally for making aircraft, these are easier to use because of their compound action, yielding a higher mechanical advantage. Allows for added clearance in tight cuts. Used to cut circles with smaller radius. ![]() Useful for cutting short straight sections and curves They are a very sturdy and useful tool, deadly accurate, easy to sharpen and maintain, and damned near indestructible. ![]() Tinner's Snips: These are your grandpa's tin snips. Not true! Straight shears make straight cuts. Trying to make straight cuts with a non-straight cut shear may lead you to believe that you're a crumby metalworker. There are several different types of shears out there, and each of them have very specific uses. Or, overlap tabbed-seams with a seamed edge. Clean up the seam with a groover-a steel stamp with a rectangular cut-out. Make a v-shaped channel on each end on opposite sides of the sheet, nest the openings and flatten closed. ![]() Hemmed seams are a good way to join two edges. There are also methods of joining metal without fasteners or brazing. Use a MAPP gas torch, brass brazing rods, and flux to heat the joint to braze and draw brass into the seam using capillary action. If rivets aren't your cup of tea, try brazing. Solid rivets are another option, but doming them in tight spaces can be an issue, hence the choice of pop rivets for this box. Just be sure to use a steady hand, the appropriate size hammer, and a rivet set if possible. Doming them with a ball peen hammer helps a lot. You actually can dress these rivets as well. Put the rivet in the hole you've drilled, and draw the mandrel through the rivet shank with a riveting tool. Then, your bit has a depression to hollow out and won't stray and scratch the work. Punch a dimple in the sheet metal before attempting to drill the pilot holes using an awl and mallet. POP rivets are a good alternative to spot welds. If you start in the middle of the work and work your way out to edges, you'll have more uniform results than moving from corner to corner. When spot welding, for instance, each spot weld causes the sheet to expand 360 degrees around the weld. Heat causes metal to expand and warp if you're not careful. Welding sheet metal isn't always the ideal way to join sheet-especially thin or non-ferrous sheet.
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